Flight Diary

27th November
Bangkok & Diabetes in Thailand
Bangkok is a colorful city, alive with buzz and activity. The Chao Praya River winds through the city and is one of the most fascinating parts. Diminutive but powerful tugboats pull heavily laden barge convoys. Streamlined "river buses" forge along, stopping briefly at pontoon jetties where passengers precariously jump off and on. Small long-tail boats speed in between, drivers manhandling stern-mounted car engines with long propeller shafts protruding into the water.

Indeed it was an enjoyable long-tail boat ride up-river on 27th November to Siriraj Hospital to meet with Professor Sunthorn Tanhanand, the President of the Diabetes Association of Thailand. In Thailand, a sharp increase in incidence has been seen over the past three decades during which migration to cities has occurred with subsequent lifestyle and diet changes. In 1965, less than 2.5% of the population had diabetes. In Year 2000, this had increased to 4.8%. A survey of over 35 year-olds in 2001/2002 showed 9.6% with diabetes. Urban incidence is three times greater than rural incidence, similar to India. With many people in Thailand living on relatively low wages, however, it is noteworthy that free medication is available to those suffering poverty.

24th November
Flight from Bangkok to Bangphra
A truly enjoyable flight! It was sunny and clear for the short 45-mile hop from Bangkok International to Bangphra Airfield, home of the Thai Flying Club. Once again, Siam GA was extremely efficient at Bangkok Airport, with paperwork prepared well in advance of departure. There was nothing for DWF crew to do except climb in and taxi out! Many thanks once again go to Siam GA.

Bangphra lies in an attractive setting amongst tree-covered hills and close to the Bangkok Bay shoreline. Overall, it’s an exciting and challenging landing environment. The runway is short (800 meters landing distance available) and narrow with a 1.5% downhill gradient on Rwy 23. On base leg for 23, the runway remains hidden until brushing by one of the hills where a tight final turn is made onto “short-finals” and immediate landing. You really don’t want to be fast on final approach as those downhill 800 meters disappear with alarming rapidity!

On handing over from Bangkok Approach to Bangpra Tower, it was a great feeling to be returning to “home base” where welcoming radio calls were received. All baggage had been taken out of the aircraft and fuel tanks were less than half full in preparation for the short-field landing. Nevertheless, prior to descent from 3,500 feet, a low speed handling check was made to simulate the slower than usual approach (using a turning 85 knots versus straight-in 100 kts reducing to 90 kts over runway threshold).

Normally at this time of year, prevailing winds are from the north, favouring uphill Runway 05 with its straight-in approach. However, wind was at 220 degrees at four knots and therefore good old Runway 23 was in use! A “low approach” was initially made, and as DWF flew along the runway Ty commented “landing is an option!” i.e. you don’t really have to! DWF was brought in low and slow on an early finals turn, and it was gratifying to find that the aircraft slowed up in just over half runway length. Indeed it was great to arrive. Tom Claytor, currently on lifetime round-the-world flight project in his Cessna 180, and a valued advisor to DWF, was waiting with other club members and staff, garlands in hand to drape over crew necks.

...Departure from Banphra for Phuket and Singapore is planned for 8th and 9th December respectively...more news to follow.

23 November
Flight from Kolkata to Bangkok
The one-day stay at Tollygunge Club was peaceful and enjoyable. At sunset the Club was like a bird sanctuary as hundreds of birds landed and roosted in trees bordering the golf-course fairways.

Indian Airlines did a fine job of ground handling DWF at Kolkata Airport. (The weather briefing even included hand-sketched thunderclouds forecast en-route Bangkok!) It was fascinating to fly over The Irrawady River plus endless white sandy beaches of Myanmar (formerly known as Burma). The lack of development in Myanmar is noticeable even from 11,000 feet. Many rural villages dot the landscape with connecting roads comprising dirt tracks. It’s saddening to think that many travelers may never enjoy Myanmar’s beautiful countryside, with restrictive and repressive policies possibly deterring tourists and foreign investment for years to come. The route continued directly over a huge gold-topped Buddhist temple north of Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon) where the Irawaddy River could be seen snaking in into the distant Andaman Sea.

Flying over the Thai border, the difference is soon stark – tarred roads and traffic abounds in between industrial developments and rice paddies. Indeed it was tremendous to fly into Thailand where Douglas had been based for over six years. Approaching Bangkok International Airport (the busiest airport to date) the automated weather broadcast warned of five thunderstorms within the airport vicinity, and DWF soon flew through dense cloud and heavy rain. Efficient radar vectors, however, aided swift establishment on Runway 21 Left ILS, squeezing DWF in ahead of threatening storms to the north.

There ensued the most impressive ground handling seen yet. Dr. Jain of Siam GA Company had very kindly offered complimentary ground handling, and Siam GA’s efficiency was truly impressive. The number of documents to be completed and signed at Bangkok is mind boggling! However, Khun May had prepared everything in advance in no time at all it seemed that DWF was through Immigration and on its way to the serene riverside Bangkok Marriot Resort & Spa Hotel which was supporting DWF in Bangkok. Many thanks indeed go to Dr. Jain, Khun Direg and Khun May of Siam GA whose superb service is thoroughly recommended to any flight into Bangkok, and also to Bill Heinecke and the Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa for their support while in Thailand.

Two weeks are planned for Thailand during which Ty will return to Florida to see his fiancee, Maria, and aircraft maintenance is planned. More news to follow...

21st November
Flight from Mumbai to Kolkata
The efficiency of “Cambata” handling agents was impressive, allowing departure less than 90 minutes after arrival at the airport. Blue sky and sunshine prevailed for takeoff but low level haze (“smoke”) resulted in forward ground visibility of just 4,000 meters. As DWF climbed through 5,000 feet, however, the atmosphere cleared to display distinctly flat-topped mountains rising to the east. During winter months, high-pressure weather systems dominate the region, often resulting in hazy conditions at lower levels. Such conditions continued throughout the 900-mile flight to Kolkata (formerly known as Calcutta) where limited visibility again resulted in an instrument approach to the southerly runway. Despite serving 14 million inhabitants, Kolkata International Airport had a “cosier” regional-airport feel to it. Somewhat amusingly, having arranged handling agents in advance, DWF was surrounded by 11 officials on arrival, including Indian Airlines handling agents, customs officers, an Indian Oil fuel agent, plus armed guards! The handling agents proved to be efficient again, even arranging paperwork in advance of departure two days later. What a difference to initial arrival at Mumbai!

DWF was staying for the next two nights on the southern edge of Kolkata at the Tollygunge Club, a slightly aging but peaceful accommodation complex set in a beautifully sculptured 18-hole golf course. The Tollygunge is known for giving an impression of what the days of the Raj must have been like. On arrival, it definitely offered respite from the hectic roads from the airport. The general haze had intensified on the way, and on passing some roadside bonfires, the mixture of smoke, roadside dust and vehicle pollution had been stifling.

16th – 21st November
Mumbai, India

“The higher the affluence, the higher the incidence of diabetes”…
Mumbai is a fascinating cacophony of modern-day business, old colonial grandeur, crowded roads and poverty. Auto-rickshaws, motorbikes, cars, 1960s-style taxis, buses and lorries (many belching thick blue fumes) vie aggressively for the fastest way through congested streets. Horns are used with great frequency and gusto. Mumbai is India’s financial centre and boasts some of the most expensive office space anywhere in the world. It also houses over 16 million inhabitants, many of whom have migrated from rural India. A portion of these live in temporary linen and corrugated iron shelters which have subsequently become permanent and can be found in both village-like communities and adjacent to busy roads and railways. During the day, scantily clad children play disturbingly close to the roadsides, while in the evenings, the same areas see people sleeping in the open.

Meanwhile, healthcare for people with diabetes in India is encouraging, details of which were gleaned from a fascinating and instructive visit to the Raheja Hospital, the seat of India’s Diabetes Association and the country’s only hospital specializing in Diabetes care. A meeting was held with Dr. Sathe, the Secretary of the Indian Diabetes Association, who outlined that the poor obtain free treatment and medication from government hospitals.

Some stark facts and phrases will be remembered regarding diabetes in India. “The higher the affluence, the higher the incidence”. Rural India, where diet and lifestyle has changed little over the years, displays less than 2% incidence of diabetes. Urban areas with greater relative affluence (with “richer” diets and more sedentary lifestyle) show triple the incidence. India is leading research into how the balance of polyunsaturated fats belonging to Omega 6 and Omega 3 families has changed over the years, and its correlation with increasing incidence of urban diabetes. The Omega 6/3 ratio has increased due to vegetable and seed oils replacing fats found in fenugreek, ghee, coconut and marine fish oils in the diet. As a result, a key phrase used by the Diabetic Association of India is “Treatment is not in the Hospital but in the kitchen”. Association campaigns aim at diet and the preferred use of Omega 3 (cooking) oils for both ongoing healthcare of people with diabetes and for the prevention of diabetes.

A tour of the impressive new US$10 mn Raheja Hospital wing was undertaken where the latest technology for the treatment of diabetes complications (e.g. dialysis machines) is used. The Raheja family in Mumbai has spearheaded diabetes treatment in India, having founded the hospital in 1970 and initiated the Diabetic Association of India, of which Dr. B. S. Raheja is the current President.

Mumbai was another memorable visit. Sheraton Hotels once again supported DWF at the ITC Grand Maratha Sheraton Hotel & Towers. Many thanks indeed go to the Hotel and to Mr. Dipak Haksar, General Manager and Miss Bindu Panicker, Marketing Communications Leader for their support.

16th November
Flight from Oman to India
It was a relief to hear on 15th November from Paul at Overflight Ltd., that Indian flight clearance had been given. The alternative was a major detour to Thailand via Sri Lanka, including a 10-hour flight into forecast unstable tropical conditions (thunderstorms).

After two hours of departure formalities and taking up fuel sponsored by Air BP (for which many thanks again!), DWF was off to Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay. Conditions for the five and half-hour Arabian Sea flight were smooth and clear. Given the long distances from land, the HF (High Frequency) radio was used for mandatory position reports to “Mumbai Radio”. A couple of HF transmissions were “unreadable” though, and one position
report was kindly relayed on “Guard” (Emergency 121.5 VHF radio frequency) by a Gulf Air passenger airliner flying overhead.

On reaching the Indian coastline in darkness, it really did feel like DWF was making progress. The descent into Mumbai was fast and furious while being radar vectored onto Runway 27 ILS, and the cockpit rapidly warmed up to the 30 degrees C outside temperature. Interestingly, from almost 1,000 feet it was possible to detect a faint but distinctive sweet-musky scent on the air, which never fails to evoke anticipation and excitement at being in
the Far East.

Thereafter, an extremely “interesting” three hours followed! DWF had been advised that several competing ground-handling agents normally surround light aircraft on arrival whereupon haggling begins. This was not the case for DWF. After scrabbling around in the dark, making repeated telephone calls and radio requests to Mumbai Airport Ground Control, one handling agent representative eventually made the 15-minute drive from the main terminal, and calmly requested US$500. Outrageous!! This is almost ten times the average experienced so far, and right at the top-end of any range expected in India. Being a Scotsman, Douglas made a few more telephone calls for competing quotes!! Overall it took 90 minutes from engine shutdown to discover that it was impossible to negotiate either alternative handlers or a lower fee from the representative waiting patiently (who knew that this would be the case all along!). Once the decision was made, however, this agent proved to be efficient and helpful.

Meantime, a Customs Officer, Mr. I.H. Kate, waited patiently, having inspected the aircraft soon after landing. It transpired that he had Type 2 Diabetes and that he tested his blood sugars once a month at a diagnostic centre. One of the DWF Accu-Check meters was dug out and a fresh “Softclix” fingerpick made for a blood test. Mr. Kate was both relieved and delighted to find that his blood sugar was 112 mg% (6.2 mmol/l), a figure within normal range, and he subsequently resolved to purchase an Accu-Chek meter. This really was quite a coincidence, and it was a delight to make friends with Mr. Kate.

Overall, it took three hours and ten minutes to get through the airport – a record length for DWF so far.

12th – 16th November
Oman
Many thanks go to Mr. Sanjeev Tandon and The Sheraton Oman Hotel for supporting DWF while in Oman. The stay at the Hotel was truly excellent, and a press conference was organized on the 14th November, coinciding with World Diabetes Day.

Muscat’s townships lie between starkly beautiful and distinctly arid metamorphosed sandstone hills. The townships themselves are incredibly neat and tidy - even cars must be kept clean by law. Financed by oil production since the 1970s, Oman has experienced a rapid and impressive modernization. In 1970, life expectancy was 47 years whereas by 1998 it stood at 68. From only one hospital, there are now over 50, and local inhabitants are provided with free healthcare. A private meeting was held with Dr. Mohammed Lamki, a Consultant Diabetologist. The story surrounding diabetes in Oman remains remarkably consistent; lifestyle changes, increasing incidence of obesity, higher incidence of (Type 2) diabetes. A survey of over 25 year-olds by the World Health Organization in 2000 had highlighted diabetes incidence in Oman of 10% while 12% had impaired glucose tolerance.

Interestingly, across the region it was generally recognized that the Middle Eastern culture makes it more challenging for women to carry out fitness exercise due to clothing customs, and this does not help the incidence of obesity. Gymnasiums were increasingly being used for women-only fitness sessions in Oman.

Impressions of the Middle East…
“Positive” best describes DWF’s experience in the Middle East. Several people voiced concerns over travel through the region, particularly with tensions prevailing over the situation with Iraq. However, people were warm, friendly and incredibly helpful without exception. There is a large number of expatriates in many parts of the region who enjoy a peaceful and friendly environment - over 3% of Dubai’s population are western expats while almost 75% of total population are Asian expats. DWF also met a number of British expats in Bahrain who had lived and worked there for over 10 years and could not have enthused more about their quality of life - they “do not want to go back!” It is worth noting that winter is an excellent time to travel in the Middle East, with plenty of sunshine with superb temperatures. Dubai already has well-developed tourist amenities attracting European winter sun package tours, while Oman’s stunning scenery and impeccable beaches have so much potential.

12th November
Flight from Dubai to Oman
Airport departure preparations took almost two hours, including an amusing session (in retrospect!) with an Air Traffic official who made DWF feel like misbehaving school kids while amending the flight plans for local procedures! Takeoff was into late afternoon sunshine and a comfortable 29 degrees centigrade, and as DWF peeled around to the east from Runway 30 departure, the incredible Palm Tree Island development could be seen, along with downtown high-rise buildings and the Dubai Beach Hotel. (Dubai’s atmosphere was quite different to Jordan and Bahrain, with notable office, hotel and residential development going on.) Golden sand dunes lined the desert floor before jagged sandstone mountains were passed to the east, and from 11,000 feet, several Omani townships could be seen stringing into the distance along the Gulf of Oman shoreline. For the third time while flying in the Middle East, a stunning sunset was witnessed, this time silhouetting Oman’s Hajar mountains as DWF landed at Seeb International Airport. This was a short one and a half-hour flight to Muscat, where the Sheraton Oman Hotel was very kindly sponsoring DWF during its stay.

Indeed, a major “thank you” goes to Michelle Miller for all her hotel sponsorship arrangements and co-ordination. Michelle’s input to DWF has been tremendous all this year, and has been so much appreciated. Thank you!!

10th – 12th November
Dubai
Dubai was a particularly enjoyable visit, staying and catching up with old RAF friends, Colin and Pauline Bodie and family. (Next time, will stay longer!!) Colin had arranged interviews with Gulf News and Emirates Radio, and a dinner was also enjoyed with local Dubai flyers Leslie, Riaz (Dubai’s senior flying examiner), Evelyn and Andrew. Evelyn is a Bio-Resonance Therapist, and some fascinating tests were carried out the following day with results uncannily consistent for someone with diabetes. Evelyn had contacted Giri Iyengar at Air BP who generously sponsored DWF for its fuel uptake in Dubai and Oman – many thanks indeed to Evelyn, and Giri & Air BP for sponsorship, which is very much appreciated! Thanks also go to Riaz for arranging handling fees to be waived in Dubai. DWF wished it had been staying for longer in Dubai - overall it was a thoroughly enjoyable stay.

10th November
Bahrain, Incidence of diabetes is high and accelerating….
The Sheraton Bahrain Hotel & Towers made DWF very welcome and organized an excellent press conference on 10th November. One of the panel members was Dr. Salwa Al Mahroos, the Vice President of the Bahrain Diabetic Society. Bahrain remains consistent with regional diabetes figures - incidence is high and numbers are accelerating. One research project concluded that 20% of the Bahraini population over 50 years of age had diabetes, a frightening number. Additionally, Type 1 diabetes, usually seen in children, is accelerating, and alarmingly, Type 2 diabetes, normally seen in middle age, is increasingly diagnosed amongst juveniles. Once again, more sedentary lifestyle, changing diet and obesity, along with genetics and hereditary factors play important roles. It was extremely good to have this press conference opportunity to raise awareness of diabetes. The Sheraton Bahrain Hotel & Towers itself recognizes the increasing problem of diabetes and promotes the importance of diet and fitness through its very knowledgeable dietician, Meghana Chansarkar, and excellent health club run by Sarah Duffy. Many thanks indeed again go to the Sheraton Bahrain Hotel & Towers and staff, particularly Chris and Alison, for supporting DWF and making Bahrain such a productive and enjoyable stay. The stay really was too short!

Flight to Dubai….10th November
As DWF has found, it pays to take a deep breath before entering airport departure terminals and stress the importance of patience! After a few delays with filing flight plans, paying bills and refueling, takeoff was into late afternoon sunshine. It was a smooth 2.5-hour flight over the Arabian Gulf waters to Dubai, and another vivid sunset behind the aircraft was savoured. Dubai’s lights and coastline stood out clearly as DWF approached at 7,000 feet, where radar vectors were given to Runway 30 ILS approach in gin-clear and calm conditions. Yet another very enjoyable flight...

DWF Progress to Date….
Arrival in Bahrain on 9th November marks 8,000 miles from Omaha, one third of the distance to be carried out by 20th February. It has been a tremendous experience to date, with many informative diabetes association meetings, good media coverage, plus support from many angles. In-flight blood sugar control has been good, and safety pilots (firstly James, and now Ty) have also been very good. So far US$11,500 has been donated or pledged for diabetes research, and many thanks indeed go to all those who have supported DWF.

The next two weeks’ destinations include Dubai, Oman, and either India or Sri Lanka before Thailand (depending on clearance status for India.)…More news to follow.

9th November
Flight from Jordan to Bahrain….
Many thanks indeed to Kelly, an instructor at one Amman flying schools, who came out to the airport to procure some engine oil for onward DWF use – much appreciated!

Sunny conditions prevailed over most of the 940-mile flight to Bahrain, and soon over Saudi Arabia a massive sea of sand dunes could be seen stretching all the way to the horizon. In between some larger cities, isolated communities were visible with circular irrigation schemes standing out in stark contrast to the arid desert landscape. After almost six hours of flying, DWF landed from a fast and sweeping right turn onto Bahrain International’s Runway 30. It was warm! It was also very good to be met by Alison of Sheraton Bahrain Hotel & Towers, which has generously supported DWF while in Bahrain.

Jordan, 3 – 8th November
It was great to catch up and stay with Cassandra, a friend who works with the UN in Jordan. In between meetings and media interviews, a visit was made to swim in the Dead Sea (a tremendous experience) and to Petra to see the stunning pre-Roman buildings and tomb facades hewn from sheer sandstone rock. Many thanks indeed go to Cassandra for being such a good host during DWF’s visit, and also to the British Embassy Social Club which pledged future support for DWF.

Diabetes in Jordan
“There is an epidemic going on…”
On the second day, a fascinating meeting was held with Dr. Mohamed El-Zaheri, President of the Jordanian Society for the Care of Diabetes. Two recent independent studies of diabetes and impaired glucose tolerance (IGT) prevalence in Jordan’s over 25 year-olds concluded that 14% had diabetes and 11% had IGT. Published figures for Lebanon, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Egypt and Oman show identical figures. Dr. El-Zaheri outlined that the past 30 years had shown a near epidemic in Jordan, primarily due to change in lifestyle i.e. changing diet (higher carbohydrate and fat content) and being more sedentary, leading to higher incidence of overweightness and in turn to Type 2 diabetes. This story is consistent worldwide.

With Ramadan about to begin, when fasting is observed between sunrise and sunset, the question was raised about diabetes management. It was outlined that the majority of people with diabetes are advised against fasting during Ramadan. It was also explained that according to the Koran, “patients are exempted” from Ramadan fasting.

One of the aims of the Jordan Association is to offer assistance to those who find it difficult to afford medication. The average monthly wage is 150 Jordan Dinars (approximately US$225) and with insulin vials costing around 15 J.D., monthly medication can represent 20% of average wages for someone with Type 1 diabetes. (This does not even account for the cost of blood sugar monitoring meters and test strips.) Many Jordanian households find it extremely difficult to afford medication, and over the past few years, the Jordan Association has assisted over 1150 people with Type 1 Diabetes with insulin supplies.

Funding for the Jordan Association is running out! Prior to 1998, fund raising was primarily through a highly publicized “Annual March” which was sponsored by a number of companies. With the turmoil in the region, however, public gatherings or marches are now not allowed. The Jordanian Society for the Care of Diabetes would therefore be most grateful for support and donations.

November 3rd
Flight from Cyprus to Amman, Jordan
The flight from Cyprus to Amman took three hours along airways over Lebanon and Syria before turning southwestwards into Jordan. As DWF approached the Lebanese coast, air traffic control warned of “four unidentified aircraft, 14 miles at 2 o’ clock” where contrails of fast jets could be seen in a race-track pattern high above. It was later learned that Israeli jets had recently been flying over Lebanon, and this could have explained the “unidentified” status of the aircraft above. The flight continued past Tripoli, Mt. Lebanon, Bekka Valley and into the desert landscape of Syria and Jordan. Another memorable flight......

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